Sunday was Goree Day

Me at Ile de Goree

Sunday morning. Rise and shine. Oh wait, nope, there was no shining, only rain. I was so mad, because I was supposed to go to L’ile Goree by 9 on Sunday. We decided to wait out the rain, and luckily enough it stopped by 11. Coumba and I left the house in order to go to take the Chaloupe (this boat) to Goree.

As a foreigner I had to pay more than 3 times than Coumba – and as if it wouldn’t be hard enough to fake that I’m Senegalese even Coumba got questioned if she was really Senegalese lol.

We made our way onto the boat and I felt all excited leaving Dakar behind – I really haven’t left Dakar this whole time, unfortunately.

Bye bye Dakar!

When we finally arrived (of course, the boat didn’t leave on time as expected), I was on an island – it’s been  a while since that you know, altho Jamaica is much bigger. We started to simply walk around and Coumba was pointing out places to me and we were taking in the sights but also taking pictures.

However, there was music playing that drew our attention, and we ended up following a crowd of people. There were men playing the tam-tam, men playing trumpets and young girls and children dancing at the front of the entire parade (I guess, I can call it that). We found out later it was a Fete to celebrate 140 years of La Mairie of Goree. Great timing!

Part of the parade..

It started to drizzle but we still made our way to the beach – one a little less crowded than the ones we saw at first. Still fully clothed, Coumba and I still had a great time ‘dipping our feet’.

We then went to the Maison des Esclaves when it opened. This was where many slaves were kept before they were shipped off to the New World from Senegal. When the curator came outside to talk about what happened, I was completely lost. A bit disappointed in my French, I went upstairs where I learnt much more from reading the information posts than the curator’s speech.

Being there, was all exciting for me – I used to love Caribbean History and slavery was a big chunk of the syllabus, and there I was in a piece of history. But with that fascination, came sadness as when reflecting on the horrors of the past, it seems unbelievable sometimes what seemed perfectly acceptable at that period both for white slave traders and black traitors. After the tour, I wrote in a little book that they had to thank them for the opportunity to see the Slave House and headed out to the seaside once more.

By the seaside..

Three seashells richer, we hung out by another beach waiting on one of Coumba’s friends who lives on the island (Sounds cool at first, but she waits on a boat ride to and from home every morning just to go to school –  that could be a tad stressful during school time).

You’d think that we’d just buy some fish at any of the many restaurants by the beach, but no – Me, being perfectly impolite, told Coumba’s friend (within minutes of meeting her) that I was starving and hence came my invitation for lunch lol.

They spread a cloth on the floor and brought out a big steaming platter of cheb u ginaaw – really chicken and rice. They offered me a stool and I felt left out, I insisted that I wanted to sit on the floor like everyone else, so I did.

The food and our eating area :) - plus the stool I turned down lol

I was offered a spoon and told to eat up. There were 7 of us eating from the platter. Two of the girls were eating with their hands – this was actually the first time I was eating with people while they ate with their hands so I felt all cool, altho I was still using my spoon. The food was really good too – I was starving and all, but it was yummy. And even after stuffing myself, when I stopped they all insisted that I eat up – but I could hold no more. But that is relative, because after having some bottled water I did have my mango for dessert quite easily.

AFTER all our ravenous eating

Niggeritis set in and we just chilled at the house waiting on the next scheduled Chaloupe to arrive. When we went to catch the boat, it was (1) late, (2) carrying some Senegalese singer for the day’s celebration – I had no idea who it was, but I just smiled and waved, blending right in.

You’d think that the day at Goree would be enough – but Coumba and I headed off to get icecream before we returned home.

At Nice-cream with what seems like invisible ice-cream

Then it was really time to call it a day – and a good day it was!

Goodbye Wolof && Hello Church Concert

So it has been a while - I didn't post on Friday because I didn't have much to say and I came in so late on Saturday night from church so let me fill you in!

On Friday, I went to La Poupponiere (which was just featured on Senegalese TV again - yay for my babies, I hope they get more sponsors). Zhaoyi texted me that she was sick, so it was just me and this Swedish lady volunteering in the morning.

In the afternoon, I went to my last Wolof class. *Tear* I do not know where 20 hours of class went - much less where 5 weeks went? I cannot believe I've been in Senegal for so long. That French lady I met in my first week was right (she had volunteered for 2 months and left in my 1st week), she warned me that the time will fly.

Me and the Wolof Prof!

I said my goodbyes to my professor Sidy, but I know I will see him again. I might just decide to go to WARC and have lunch with the staff there one of these days.

He waves goodbye!

***

I spent the entire day at church again this Saturday! I left home in a taxi not suspecting to tho. (I was very proud of myself for knowing the directions by taxi by now and I was there pretty much on time.) I am guessing I understood more of the Sabbath school and sermon this time (which was all in French) so maybe my Christian French vocabulary has increased.

The sermon in church - the actual church building this time

After church, I walked with Malcolm and Gabie to Lucas’ house nearby. Let’s just say that the rainy season in Senegal doesn’t make it very easy for pedestrians to cross litter-ridden streets (Not too different from some parts of Jamaica). Before we knew it, the house was filled with people from church.

Gabie (left), Malcolm (middle) & Me (right)

Then the food came. When I say food, I mean tons of food – and altho it was a lot of us, it was a ton of food still. What I don’t usually see at my house was that we were divided by sex and kinda by age (I was a little perturbed by this, but Malcolm assured me I could eat with the guys if I wanted to - but why not make more friends with the girls from church anyway?). The boys ate together, the children ate together and I ate with the girls. It was vermicelli and chicken with sauce.

After lunch, we rested a little before we walked back to church. What was I doing at church? Well it seemed like I was just in time for choir rehearsal. I am in the choir now? That is a good question. Lloyd thought I ought to join in and I actually did in the Alto section (Team A for all my YGB folks). Rest assured I didn’t go join the actual concert just the rehearsal lol.

I was then helping to set up for the concert at 7 – which of course, did not start at 7 – I have yet to find something that starts on time here (oh, I just lied, everything at La Poupponiere is on schedule).

Me helping out at the Ticket Counter!

Then I was helping at the Ticket Counter or whatever – to collect tickets or money when the concert did start. Look at me, getting all involved. And of course, I was an avid cheerleader for my church as well as the other performances from other churches that came. Let’s just say it was a very good concert – even despite the drizzle that persisted for what seemed to me like forever.

Church choir in their robes

And yes, I understand that we started late but let’s just say after 11 it was still kicking. But it finished up shortly after that, and I lent a helping hand again to pack up after the concert. So you know, I wasn’t home till late but I had company.

One of the last performances of the evening - I really wanted this outfit tho!

What sorcery is this? I think Senegal might just have grown on me a tad too much now and I will be leaving only too soon. 

Me sporting two different costumes of the evening borrowed from friends haha

Mall Time && Farewells

I started off my day walking the Corniche with my host mom for about an hour before returning home for French class. French class was as French class normally is – Frenchy.

When I was having lunch after class, I was making plans with Anna to go out after work. This time to the mall – Seaplaza! At La Poupponiere, I met up with Anna and we were taking care of the babies. Marc, (the baby I would adopt in a heartbeat) was crying and I was so sad because he never cries – I tried just about everything to quiet him, but I realised he just wanted to sleep and the other babies were being rather loud, whew, it wasn’t too serious. (Note to self: Must take pictures of all my lovely babies before I leave Senegal)

Anna and I took a taxi to SeaPlaza and started our little shopping spree – except it wasn't too much of a shopping spree because we didn't really buy anything.

Anna and I outside the plaza by some fountain thing - All smiles :)

 There were many French stores and they were more expensive things than regular people in Dakar would buy. The mall really pointed out the differences in social classes for me because I couldn’t imagine even my family just easily buying something from one of those stores. Anna and I could have bought something with our money – but she didn’t find her size and I, well, I just don’t have space in my suitcase for stuff, if I buy anything here I want it to be obviously Senegalese or African cause I don’t want to pay for overweight luggage for something I could buy in the States.

Lovely Mango store with beautiful clothes that neither of us bought lol

But it turned out to be nice window shopping at least. We decided to go to the Food Court and actually spend money this time. We had a nice table with a view of the seaside. I ordered ice-cream and Anne missing home, ordered a Crepe Suzzete and a Cappuccino with caramel.

There goes my French friend - Eat up!

 We waited forever for the order to come but we were still just having a good time and people watching. We really felt like we were among the richer Senegalese and of course among foreigners as well (we’re foreigners ourselves, but we don’t consider ourselves rich).

This was me waiting on our order - by the seaside!

It turns out that this was the last time Anna and I will be hanging out which made me very sad. I mean I knew when we were planning. But when we stopped a taxi and I had to say bye, I was like wait, this is Bye you’re going back to France BYE L I wished her Bon Voyage but maybe we’ll see each other again – when, not if, I get my butt to France.

Where did the time go? 

(This was actually taken last Tuesday - and it looks like we wore the exact same tops tonight lol - that's what living out of a suitcase that can hold only so much clothes does to you)

Well that’s all for tonight folks. Byeeee!

Two in One Post Tonight

I am not sure if you all realised but I skipped yesterday - decided to do two in one. Only thing different that I did yesterday was go exercising after work with a friend - which was all the way to THE statue that the past president, Wade, built. For more about the Renaissance Statue, you can check out: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/African_Renaissance_Monument (Ye, ye, I know it's a Wikipedia link, but oh well)

An unfit me underneath the huge statue. Note to self: Stop wearing brown shirt because now I'm too tan for it.

So do you see all these stairs? All part of the exercise!

A friend from Grinnell recently arrived in Dakar and I of course told her we had to meet up. She is an international student as well, so Senegal gave her hell with the visa just as they did with me. Her NGO work was moving a bit slow (on Senegal time) so she decided to give some hours at La Pouponniere – Yay us! I’m like recruiting now haha. I just showed her the ropes while we worked but the babies were really cranky today (by today I mean Wed.) – hope I don’t lose my recruit.

 I invited her back to my house and we took a car rapide (which by the way I’ve been spelling wrong this whole time). It was a real fancy one with nice seats I was in such amazement – I think the other people in the car rapide thought I was crazy. 

Do you see these seats? You don't even get this cushioning in a taxi!

Me and Zhaoyi on our way to Mermoz

But we went home and had cheb u jen which was spicy – I love spice! Plus, for dessert we had mangoes, yumm. As Zhaoyi pointed out, I really do live in a rich part of Dakar – not THE rich part but I live in a pretty good apartment with a flushing toilet and a maid plus Internet, how can I complain? My host mom kindly told Zhaoyi that she is welcome to her home anytime (even without me) so now she can’t be too jealous of my ‘rich’ home.

Zhaoyi (left), Me (centre) and Host Mom (right) after stuffing our faces but still ready for dessert!

We ended up both taking a nap in my room before we left the house. I walked her out and stopped a car rapide for her to go home. Then I went in the opposite direction for my 40 minute walk to Wolof class at WARC. Today was especially hot tho, so I wasn’t too happy.

Anyway, I had my second to last Wolof class – which made my professor so sad. I really enjoyed Wolof classes altho I think I have a terrible accent and don’t speak it very much – I mostly use it to pick out words so I can understand. Last class is Friday – I hope I can visit WARC still tho – the WARC staff all been very helpful to me.

After walking back from Wolof classes, I went straight to actual exercising. I eat so much food here, I’ve decided that exercising is a MUST. So I went out to Ouakam with Malcolm from church – who I’ve now named as my official trainer. My poor little butt has gotten used to walking but I’m only warming up to other exercises now.

But after a shower, I only managed to make this post. I really don’t know why I’m still up and it’s minutes past 1. I have to be up by 7:15 to go walking with my host mom – so early, but it’s nice and cool out at that time.

I just lied. I've done something beside blogging! I ALSO had a lovely skype call with my blog fans Shanice, Auntie Marie, Jade and Ashmar. As a typical Jamaican, got to give a shout out to my family in Canada – Jamaicans represent!

Haha, okay I’m gonna go to bed now. Peace!

Village Artisanal de Soumbedioune

After work at La Poupponiere today, I returned home with the plan to go to the Artisanal Market with my host sister, Coumba. 

Here I am in an artisan's shop!

Coumba and I being our wonderful selves lol

Of course, I try the best to work with my schedule so it was before my Wolof classes but it was the hottest time of the day. I really am two shades darker already since I’ve been here – and I haven’t even reached Jamaica yet.

Me with two vendors in front of their shop - the bargaining took quite a while, I must say

I was only planning to bring a little money – but ending up carrying 3 times that and I spent it all! All the vendors wanted me to buy their goods but I kept saying I wanted to view and then I would buy after my tour. Now why did I do that? I ended up finding an alternate route to exit because I couldn’t pass by the first vendors because I already spent my money elsewhere – Lucky me!

I mean they were trying to get me to buy these to carry in which suitcase home? Beautiful, but unfortunately not everyone can get a sale.

After my purchases, I was quite exhausted after all the bargaining and we walked a little along the beach before taking a taxi. It smelt strongly of fish, but I hear that you can get some really good fish there – so it’s for a purpose.

Me leaning against a pirogue

I returned home to wash off the grime of hot and sweaty shopping experience and was off to Wolof classes. I wore a panne to class and I got compliments that I looked all Senegalese – yippee.

Ye I know, the lighting is terrible and you can't even see the skirt very well. But yaa..

All in a day's work!

My Rant about French

So today there were elections for the National Assembly, or so I was led to believe. Turns out people were only interested in kicking out President Wade in the presidential elections earlier this year and hardly anyone was there to vote in today's elections.

Candidate list from the 24 parties.

Of course, I didn't get to do any voting, but accompanied my host mom. Her she shows off her pink pinky.

For the rest of the day, we literally did house calls to visit friends at family of my host mom. My host mom has too many friends, I swear. 

Here we are in a friend's garden - It was so pretty and with all the sand in Dakar it must take a lot to maintain such a garden! My host sister, Coller (left) Me (right)

Anyway, all these visits had me thinking about French and Wolof and my inability to speak either - more so, in the case of Wolof. Thought I'd add my little rantings that I had written sometime before about language here:

When you’ve taken French classes for a couple years, you are often tricked into believing that you have achieved are certain competency in the language. Well, I shall speak for myself, I really don’t know about you. But I’ve never felt so unable to understand French in my life. The immersion experience is the best right? Well, half the time I am so lost when people start talking to me I wonder why I even bothered. However, that is not the attitude to have -____- Chantelle.

My host mother and others around me have said that my French is getting better – perhaps I am understanding their accents better and am comfortable to respond to them quickly. Or perhaps I am actually getting better. Who knows?

But the thing with French in Senegal is that it is the language of the educated. There are others who know some French, but French is taught in the schools to the more privileged (Example: My family's maid speaks fluent Wolof but here French is so-so altho French is the official language of Senegal). Hence, what do the other Senegalese people speak? In Dakar, Wolof is the most widely spoken Ethnic language but there are many other languages spoken in Dakar based on the ethnic groups that people have come from.

I hear Wolof all the time, on the streets, on the bus, at the orphanage and at home. I am taking a few hours of Wolof classes, so I am making an effort to understand… but one language at a time.

Wolof is often used interchangeably with French, so it really is an interesting dynamic here. Either way, I feel very lucky when I find an Anglophone – not to mention, my host mother speaks English and teaches English at private classes – and I get a chance to speak English. Maybe I am cheating my immersion experience a bit. I have only 4 weeks left tho – so we’ll see how much I improve. Oh French, why can I not speak fluently as yet?

SDA Church in Dakar

So I’ve been a bit MIA this weekend. But don’t fear. I’m alright.

Yesterday, Saturday, I went to church – I’ve been going to an Adventist church here in Senegal which is not too far from my house. My Muslim host mother was so nice and she was the one who found the church for me!

Well, yesterday was 13^th Sabbath so the 3 churches in Dakar all had service in one at the Conference Office (or something like that).

The children always do something special for 13th Sabbath - and they didn't disappoint. Here they are singing.

In a true Jamaican style (you’d think by now, I’d be used to this) the sermon did not start until after 12. And the sermon was in English! I was so excited – altho it took twice as long because it was being translated into French. But, the preacher was quite a joker.

The preacher (right) from Liberia and the translator (left)

After church, we always do this greeting thing. Back home, the people on the pulpit greet people at the door – but here, everybody greets everybody which I think is really sweet.

I made sure to tell my host mom that I wasn’t coming home for lunch because I ended up having lunch at church – cheb u yassa (literally chicken with rice and don’t forget the sauce!).

Also, we had Bisap (I think that’s how you spell it) which is a drink made from sorrel – of course, Jamaican sorrel is better but Bisap deserves a nice second place.

After lunch it was time for the second part of church – what is usually Adventist Youth (AY) back home. They were playing games and Bible trivia (all being translated in both English and French muhaha).

You’d think that by 6 or so I’d be on my way home – I thought so too and was all mentally prepared to take a taxi. Instead, I ended up walking to a church friend’s house where there were having a Farewell Party for persons that were leaving Senegal (Actually most of the people in my church are actually immigrants, from Africa, Europe and USA, but there are some local Senegalese). I was there until after 10 and stuffed my face there – only to call my host mom to say I wouldn’t be home for dinner either lol.

Me leaving after the service with Niassa, an American now living in Senegal

And after a long day, with company (3 guys from my church) I walked home from God knows where (I really had no clue where the journey started but as I neared home the road finally looked familiar altho it was hella dark). I reached home minutes to midnight, still in my church clothes only to get raised eyebrows from my sisters who didn’t believe that “church” activities could go on for so long – haha, oh well. I was terribly exhausted and only managed to shower before promptly going to bed. All in all, it was a good day at church (reminded me of church in JA, because in Iowa there really is nothing to do after lunch is done at 2 pm).

So yes, there is Adventism in Senegal - altho 95% of Senegalese are Muslim